GOAN CUISINE
In the extra ordinary mosaic of cultures,
religions and traditions, that go up to make Indian life, certain small ethnic
, religious and geographic communities have evolve such distinctive manners,
habits and food customs that, although indisputably Indian, they retain a
definite identity of their own. Among these unequally colorful minorities are
the Goans. – Who acquired their special status some 300 years ego as a result
of colonization of their homeland by a foreign power – Portugal.
Goa is an almost theatrical arrangement of
hills covered with dense jungles sweeping down to the gilt crescents of beaches
were the glittering Mandovi river
stretches in a graceful carve to meat the ocean at the capital ‘Panaji’
History:
Goa celebrated in ancient Indian literature
for its wealth and beauty. In fact, its name seems from the Sanskrit word for
‘cow’- traditional symbol of prosperity. For thousands of years, goa was ruled
by various dynasties of Indian kings and many religions were represented there.
It was originally a Hindu state. But
the arrival of the Portuguese began an era that was shatteringly different from
anything the community had known.
In 1510 Alfanso d’ Albuquerque,
who later left his name in America, sailed up the Mandovi River with 23 ships and
captured Goa from its current Muslim Rulers. After violent Hand to Hand
fighting, he knelt down in the public square and dedicated the city to St.
Catherine as homage to her feast day. From then on goa’s story was dominated by
the catholic zeal of the conquerors who sparked one of the most brutal and
wholesale religious conversion recorded in Asia. Those Hindus who could afford
to escape left goa to settle in other parts of India. Goa is roughly now half
catholic Christen and Hindu. St Francis Xavier arrived in goa in 1542 and
devoted his life to spreading Christianity in goa. The Portuguese finally left India in 1961 after which the Goans
became the member of the republic of India.
The difference between the living habits of
the goan christens and their Hindu neighbors are very small. It is in their
food that the particular custom is expressed. Being a coastal region there is
no goan who is not familiar with eating rice and fish. Goa in its daily life
has two main religious influences the Hindus and the Christians but one should
not forget that there is a little bit of Muslim influence as well.
Food habits:
Being a coastal region palm and coconut
trees grow abundance. Every part of the coconut t is used by the locals. The
coconut milk is used cooking widely, the flesh is used for garnishing and the
oil derivatives make an excellent cooking medium. From the palm trees is
extracted ‘palm vinegar’ which is
unique in itself and forms an integral part of the goan cuisine as it is widely
used in marinades, gravies etc. spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, dried red chilies,
peppercorns are grown in some parts of goa. And find a prominent place in the
delicacies of this region. The Goans form the northern part of the state grind
their masalas and coconut separately but the southern part prefers to grind the
masalas and coconut together before pressing them through a muslin cloth to
extract the moisture.
Rice is widely cultivated in goa. And is
the staple food of the people. Apart from the rice the cereals consumed is
wheat in the form of freshly baked breads by the Christian communities and the
chapattis by the Hindus. Sannon -a
fluffy white bread of rice and toddy, that in appearance and texture resembles
is Idlis, is also eaten in goa. The taste however unique, the toddy giving
sannon a sweet taste and an accent unlike another wheat cake. The rice is
coarsely ground, then fermented with toddy an finally steamed to make small
cakes.
Caldo verda
is a goan soup, that is thickened by adding mashed potatoes and is garnished
with juliennes of spinach.
Goa has unique brand of alcohol called
based drink ‘feni’, which is
fermented from cashew nut, as well as palm sap which is fermented and heated.
Feni is very popular in goa and is consumed by the Goans along with their
meals.
From goan come countless fish and seafood recipes
using the oceans and the river fish, as well as the many kind of shellfish that
crowd the rocky outcroppings on its shore. Fishermen set out at dawn or dusk
and return loaded with fresh fish which are sold immediately, the fish which
are left over, left for sun drying on the beaches. One particular variety of
goan fish preparation has become so popular all down the west coast that it is
known by the generic name ‘goan fish
curry’. It is a very liquid kind of preparation somewhat the consistency of
a thick ‘bouillabaisse’, made of a mixture of several kinds of fish that are
cooked wholes, or very coarsely cut into pieces, the recipe requires large
quantity of coconut ground into a fine paste with hot masalas of red chili
powder, coriander powder, cumin powder and turmeric paste. Goan cook their fish
in this mixture adding plenty of onion , tomato and water to provide the sauce
and then seasoning it with tamarind , curry leaves and green chilies. Goan like
their famous curry to be almost scarlet with chili and it is hot.
Among shellfish prawn, lobster, crabs, and
clams are consumed abundantly. Prawn curry,
prawn balchao, prawn peri peri are few of the favorite dishes of the Goan.
Among the bewildering varieties of seafood in goa clams are a delicacy. Clams
coated with spices, steamed until they pop open and tossed with grated coconut
from a golden gingery teesryo. Goans
cook it in coconut milk and lime juice and sprinkle it with chopped fresh
coriander leaves. It is served by itself – like moules mariniere in a bowl.
Hindus eat it with chapatis which soak up the juice.
Ambotik is a
fish preparation in which shark or catfish can be used. The fish is cooked with
a paste of red chilli, cumin seeds, peppercorn, ginger, garlic and tamarind
pulp. It is generally served with boiled rice.
The common meals composed of lamb and chicken. The goan Christians have
also produced pork dishes which makes their cuisine unique in India. This range
from the familiar roast suckling pigs that composes the standard Christian
dinner, to search an erotic item as baked pork head stuffed with brains, peas, onions,
ginger, mint and green chilies, basted with vinegar. The more usual goan
dishes, however, include some truly delicious and original uses of pork. Pork baffat is a dry curry cooked in an
aromatic masalas with virtually no gravy, but the thing that makes it suppressing
and delightful is the addition of sliced radishes, near the end of the cooking
time. It is the contrast between the crisp, clean taste of the radish and
greasy texture of the pork that gives the dish its distinctive flavors.
Pork
indad is a true curry with plenty of gravy that
differs from many of the other pork dishes because of its appealing offbeat
sweet and sour taste. The tamarind, cloves and cinnamon is the masalas gives
the meat an almost perfumed flavor, while the sugar and vinegar in the gravy
take the curse of the fattiness and provides the dish with its special characters.
Another spicy red curry called Sorpotel made
of pork, pork liver; pork blood is an absolute mass at any goan Christian
banquet or feast. It is served with the accompaniment of sannon. Pork vindaloo is another famous
preparation of goa. Pork vndaloo is a pork dish in which the spices are ground
along with toddy vinegar, which gives it the traditional tangy flavor.
Goa is the only place in India where
sausages is used. The Goans produce pork and liver sausages as well as several
other kinds of highly spiced sausages, the best of which is Chourisam. It must be marinated for 24
hours in a complicated masalas mixed with vinegar before the sausages are made.
Chicken
xacuti and Cafreal
is the most well known chicken dishes form goa. Chicken xacuti is made from
broiled ground spices such as peppercorn, fennel, coriander seeds cardamom,
cinnamon nutmeg and coconut. Cafreal
is a pot roast preparation of chicken in a marinade of goan vinegar, ginger
garlic paste, chili paste, goan Worcestershire sauce and tomato sauce.
Sweets are not so popular in goa. Bebinka – pancake baked on one of the
top of the other with jaggery, applied in layers, ingredients are jaggery, egg,
milk, coconut and flour, and they are made into shape of cake.
Alebele is another goan sweet dish, pancake with spicy coconut filling. The
traditional recipe calls for a pancake made from flour, egg, milk, ghee and a
pinch of salt. The filling is made of grated fresh coconut combined with
jaggery, fresh ginger root and aniseeds.
Characteristics:
The
main characteristics or features of goan cuisine can be listed as follows:
- The food consumed is very spicy and sharp with a maximum consumption
of red chilies.
- The masalas are ground freshly and fine to extend of grinding
over and over again till the paste is clay fine.
- Coccum is commonly used by the Hindus and the Christian use goan malt
vinegar.
- Many dishes are consumed pickled or marinated in oil and
vinegar.
- The most popular food items in goa are sea food and pork. The
consumption of pork being maximum by the Christians.
- Goans do not have a sweet taste. Bebinka and alebele are the
popular sweet dishes.
No comments:
Post a Comment